<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered medium)"><!--[if !mso]><style>v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>Scott,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>If you are doing cut stump treatments, you can definitely do those in temps below freezing – my cut-off is generally 25F. Many others do treatments up here in the north country (Minnesota) during winter. Here’s our post on doing winter cut stump and basal bark treatments: <a href="https://greenshootsnews.blog/tag/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-winter/">https://greenshootsnews.blog/tag/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-winter/</a> <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>John<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#833C0B'>John Lampe<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#538135'>651-245-4682<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#538135'><a href="mailto:john@greenshootsonline.com"><span style='color:#538135'>john@greenshootsonline.com</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#538135'><a href="http://www.greenshootsonline.com/"><span style='color:#538135'>www.greenshootsonline.com</span></a></span> <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><img border=0 width=175 height=92 style='width:1.8229in;height:.9583in' id="Picture_x0020_1" src="cid:image003.png@01D3B61C.969CE300"><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal> post on winter cut surface and basal bark treatments: <a href="https://greenshootsnews.blog/tag/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-winter/">https://greenshootsnews.blog/tag/how-to-get-rid-of-weeds-in-winter/</a> <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> MAIPC <maipc-bounces@lists.maipc.org> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Mark Frey<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, March 7, 2018 11:32 AM<br><b>To:</b> Scott Baron <baron.scott@gmail.com><br><b>Cc:</b> maipc@lists.maipc.org<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [MAIPC] triclopyr and glyphosate<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>Scott<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>You'd better check the labels to be sure but I have had good luck spraying glyphosate mixes down even below freezing (although the soil has been above freezing) and I have sometimes added Ammonium sulfate - it is supposed to help in the cold. we routinely treat celandine in the 30s and 40s with 1% Rodeo and have good luck with no Ammonium sulfate.<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>extreme temperatures have led to the salts crystallizing and then being hard to get back into solution. If you don't have crystals and the herbicide isn't more than five years old I wouldn't worry about it. Someone else may have a more authoritative answer on that though!<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Mark<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>On Wed, Mar 7, 2018 at 11:01 AM, Scott Baron <<a href="mailto:baron.scott@gmail.com" target="_blank">baron.scott@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><p class=MsoNormal>Good morning, invasive fighters.<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>I have a couple of questions for which I can't find a definite answer. <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>1) Is there a minimum air temperature for effectiveness of triclopyr and glyphosate? I've heard of temperatures of at least 40 or 45F for glyphosate and I think I read 50F (10C) for triclopyr.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>2) Does anyone know if (triclopyr and glyphosate) "go bad" after reaching a certain temperature in storage? <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>I see that Garlon 3A (triclopyr) should be stored "above 28F or agitated before use." Aquaneat (glyphosate) should be stored "above 32F to keep from crystallizing. If allowed to crystallize, warm to 68F (20C) and mix well or recirculate to redissolve before using." Does anyone have anything to add?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Thank you,<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Scott Baron<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Gaithersburg, Md.<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br>_______________________________________________<br>MAIPC mailing list<br><a href="mailto:MAIPC@lists.maipc.org">MAIPC@lists.maipc.org</a><br><a href="http://lists.maipc.org/listinfo.cgi/maipc-maipc.org" target="_blank">http://lists.maipc.org/listinfo.cgi/maipc-maipc.org</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></div></body></html>