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Winter basal bark treatments (and stump treatments) can be effective against non-suckering species. I would avoid applications outside of the late growing season (July to beginning of fall color) for Ailanthus or other target suckering species. Functionally,
 basal bark in the dormant season or spring functions as a chemical girdling, with limited translocation to the other stems in the clone resulting in vigorous root sprouting.
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<div class="">Be well.</div>
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<div class="">Art Gover<br class="">
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<div class="">On Aug 9, 2023, at 14:57, Jeffrey Branham <<a href="mailto:jbranham@prescott.edu" class="">jbranham@prescott.edu</a>> wrote:</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="">What do folks think about winter basal oil treatments?</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Aug 8, 2023 at 10:58 AM Conner McBane <<a href="mailto:cmcbane@appalachiantrail.org" class="">cmcbane@appalachiantrail.org</a>> wrote:<br class="">
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Hey Damien, </div>
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We use Garlon 4 and basal oil on ailanthus a lot in Southwest and Central Virginia with great results. I have used both glyphosate and triclopyr on ailanthus and I've found anecdotally that triclopyr always works best for this species. </div>
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We use 20% triclopyr and 80% basal oil mix and we have leaned towards hack and squirt and basal bark. I have had good success with basal bark on ailanthus, but you use more chemical and some non-target treatment will happen depending on proximity. With that
 said, we use the same mix for autumn olive and bush honeysuckle as a basal bark for anything too large to foliar and it works really well for that application too. Basal bark treatment should wait at least 30 days before cutting. I do not recommend cut-stump
 treatment for ailanthus because you don't have enough translocation to the entire root system and a lot of suckers are likely. If you HAVE to do a cut-stump treatment and they are large DBH I would treat the cut surface and buttress roots/stem. You will probably
 have some resprouts, but you can try to foliar those as they come up. </div>
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Once you treat standing ailanthus, the stems are likely to drop within 2 years' time so just be aware of that additional hazard if you go that route in the future. You can also buy some PathFinder II which is basal oil/triclopyr RTU herbicide at 20% and it
 saves the hassle of mixing, but it is a little bit more expensive. </div>
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Let me know if you have any other questions and I'm happy to help! I also have a contractor who can help out up there, they are located in Charlottesville, but willing to travel. </div>
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Cheers,</div>
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 on behalf of Ossi, Damien (DOEE) <<a href="mailto:damien.ossi@dc.gov" target="_blank" class="">damien.ossi@dc.gov</a>><br class="">
<b class="">Sent:</b> Monday, August 7, 2023 10:48 AM<br class="">
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<b class="">Subject:</b> [MAIPC] Basal oil on ailanthus as stump treatment</font>
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Hi MAIPC members,</div>
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Does anyone use oil-based triclopyr rather than water-based on ailanthus as a stump-cut treatment?  We’re looking to remove a large number of ailanthus in DC before the spotted lanternflies arrive in force, and the vendor is proposing to do a stump-cut treatment
 with triclopyr.  I want to recommend that they use Garlon-4 or equivalent rather than Garlon-3a or equivalent, because the herbicide can be applied to both the sapwood on the stump and the bark on base of the stump.  But I also saw a study from Italy that
 indicated that glyphosate is better for stump-cut treatment of ailanthus.</div>
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The trees must be removed at the time of treatment, so using hack-and-squirt or typical basal bark treatments won’t fly.  Any advice from the membership?</div>
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Thanks,</div>
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Damien </div>
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<b class="">Damien P. Ossi</b></div>
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Wildlife Biologist</div>
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