[MAIPC] eradicating lesser celandine

[HTI Gmail]

Rachel,

I think your goal is terrific.  A 900 sq. ft. meadow can help migrating 
insects and birds.  Plus I would not be surprised if you picked up some 
residents. We also turned our lawn into meadow and the difference in 
year round LIFE (from snakes to spiders and dragon flies and birds) made 
it all worth while.

Do *not* expect it to take a year.  We did about 1.5 acres and it took a 
good 6 years and while it functions very well, it is not quite as we had 
planned. (Waay too much Black Eye Susan).

Also, the front end work is pretty intense.  But once everything is 
working, you will spend less time on garden maintenance than you likely 
do now.

Your first step is to look up NOVA NATIVE, it is an initiative by the 
Northern Va. Council to promote and assist native plantings in Northern 
Virginia.  They have lots of literature and can give technical 
assistance.  Do not take herbicide advice from unknown (untrusted) 
sources.  NoVa Native also has a list of pros who can work as a 
consultant.  And I know we would not have had the success we do if we 
had not worked with a pro; although some of her ideas were pretty stupid 
in retrospect.  Live and learn.

Do not remove the little topsoil you have.  Top soil is one of the first 
things developers remove and sell; why so many developments have sod 
over subsoil. Remember throughout, the LESS you disturb the soil, the 
better off you are.

It seems to be standard that meadows do not need extensive soil work.  
They are used to starting in harsh conditions.  However you get rid of 
the celandine next year, just scratch the surface and broadcast the 
seed.  Then cover with Leaf Grow.  May be worth investing in a rain 
tower to get it established.

We were advised to clear the ground with glyphosate for 18 months. Had a 
lot of soil loss and I really do not think that is good advice.  But I 
do think it makes sense to knock down the weeds several months before 
you put in the seed.  But some seeds need to be cold stratified (put 
down before winter) in order to germinate. If you plan in the fall, you 
can use a cover crop of rye to hold the soil during the winter months.  
Remember, the meadow will shade out a lot of the weeds once it gets 
established.

I think I am telling you to plan the meadow start for the late summer; 
before the celandine reproduces.  Also, consider if the celandine is 
flowing from an adjoining property.  You may want to mulch that property 
line for 3 feet to give you chance to control future infestation.  (I 
wound up putting silt fence and silt sox on one property line to keep a 
neighbor's sheet flow out of my meadow; could see the "stream" of 
stiltgrass coming off his property.    I also heavily mulched that line 
and put in a number of shrubs and trees (Red Bud, Paw Paw, Button Bush, 
etc).  It works!

This spring you could concentrate on  the natives you want to save. 
Maybe start by working on an area where you want native shrubs (Joe Pye, 
Father Gila, Vibernums, blueberry, whatever).  Amend those areas with 
Leaf Grow and mulch very heavily (4 to 6 inches)  with Pine Fines.  This 
will get you "instant gratification".  Leave room to weed stuff that 
comes though the mulch.  You will probably weed this for a couple years.

Then start thinking about what kind of a meadow you want (grass/flower) 
and perhaps on an area (100 to 200 sq feet) to get started.  Believe me, 
you will learn things as you go and you will probably want to go back 
and revise your first plot when you are done with you last.

This gives you time to get rid of the celandine in the rest of the 
area.  If you can stand it, get some cardboard boxes from an appliance 
store, lay them down and cover with Pine Fines. Seriously.  The 
cardboard and 4 to 6 inches of Pine Fines will keep anything from 
growing while at the same time they decompose to amend the soil.  This 
will start changing the soil structure and attracting things to your 
garden. We experimented with and use solarizing (whether plastic or 
cardboard) and it works well to kill the seed bank if you do it for 
several years.

In MD, 5 yards of either Pine Fines or Leaf Grow costs $35/yd 
delivered.  I am sure NoVa Native can tell you area suppliers.  Once 
your meadow is up, you will need no amendments.  But you will want them 
to use when you plant native shrubs and flowers outside the meadow.

Figure out how deep your topsoil does go.  Dig a couple pits.  You may 
decide to amend it all with Leaf Grow (call a topsoil/mulch place).  We 
buy 5 yards of it and pine fines every year for various places.  Both of 
these decompose providing a good environment for soil biology. No point 
in foliar treatments when things are in senescence.  Has to wait until 
they green up.

Within a couple years, the decomposing Leaf Grow, Pine Fines and the 
roots of the the meadow plants (which can reach down 3 feet) will begin 
changing the structure and biology of your soil, making it healthier.  
There is no instant fix.  The soil takes time to build; but it happens 
quicker than you may think.

You may want to get advice from Ernst Seed Company about what to plant 
that is tolerant to herbicides specific to celandine.

There are others on this list with more experience than me, but this is 
pretty much what we did.

Regards,
  
Dewey Clark,
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Omega Recognized Service Provider
WOSTEP (Neuchatel)  Certified After Sales Service of Current Watches
WOSTEP (Neuchatel) Certified Micromechanics
Restoration of Vintage Timepieces
Precision Timing Specialist
Micromachining




Regards,

Dewey Clark
Club Naturalist
Co-District Manager (PA)
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club
Maryland Master Naturalist

On 10/24/2017 9:13 PM, Rachel Bayly wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I am wondering if any of you are expert on the eradication of lesser 
> celandine and can help with the questions below.  (It is also called 
> fig buttercup, latin: Ficaria verna, previously Ranunculus ficaria L.)
>
> I am a homeowner in northern Virginia.  I have an area about 30’ x 30’ 
> that I would like to turn into a meadow that has essentially become a 
> mat of lesser celandine, because have been busy these last few years 
> and didn’t realize it was such a problem.  I also have some patches 
> that I am afraid to think about in and around some native plants — 
> there maybe the biggest patch is 4’x4’.   Today I have been 
> researching it and it seems to be a major problem.   It seems that any 
> effort may be multi-year, but I am looking for whatever might be most 
> effective in one cycle (year).  That would be ok if I weren’t trying 
> to make a meadow now…  This also interacts with how one makes a meadow…
>
> Questions:
>
> The immediate question is whether to smother it starting in November 
> with newspaper and mulch, or to wait for the spring and try to use 
> round-up/glyphosate with a non-ionic surfactant.  Or try one of the 
> other ideas below.
>
> -Which would be best?
> -If I smother now, can I still plant meadow grasses in the spring? 
>  Will smothering deal with the lesser celandine, or will I just have a 
> mess having to dig up the newspaper and mulch to deal with the lesser 
> celandine in the spring?
> -If I use glyphosate in February/March, can I still plant meadow 
> grasses in the spring (or possibly in the summer)?
>
> Last year or the year before, I did put down some newspaper over some 
> lesser celandine in the fall and in the spring the lesser celandine 
> was pale, presumably because it didn’t get sun, but I don’t know if in 
> fact it died or just got weaker.  So one question is: what actually 
> happens with smothering with newspaper?  Can smothering with newspaper 
> be effective, even if other means of smothering aren’t?
>
> Could smothering with cardboard be effective?  I am thinking just one 
> layer...
>
> Other things I found on the web.  Do you agree or disagree?  Should I 
> try these instead of smothering or round-up?
>
> Digging under seems not to work.  “If the plants are dug into the 
> soil, they work their way up to the surface again, the stems bracing 
> as they grow upward from the tubers and at every branch producing 
> fresh tubers.”  (But perhaps newspaper stops the plant from working 
> its way up to the surface and sunshine again?)
>
> One source said that smothering with black plastic or deep mulch 
> doesn’t work.  (But perhaps at least the mulch issue is the same as 
> plants dug in the soil, and newspaper might stop the plant reaching 
> the surface and sunshine again?   Sigh.  What’s the story with black 
> plastic?)
>
> There seem to be different opinions on whether glyphosate can be 
> applied once, with a non-ionic surfactant, or should be used to drench 
> the plant and then applied again about a week later, or should be 
> applied once and then again a year later….
>
> One post says that iron-based herbicides are best for lesser 
> celandine, such as IronX, a selective week killer for lawns.  True? 
>  Pros and cons of iron-based herbicides generally and IronX in particular?
>
> Another post says that triclopyr-based herbicides work better.  These 
> go by the names of Garlon and Release in such products as Turflon, 
> Weed-B-Gone and Brush-B-Gone.  True?  Pros and cons of iron-based 
> herbicides generally and IronX in particular?
>
> Another post suggests adding wood ashes to the soil to raise 
> neutrality and also “going heavy on the ashes over the lesser 
> celandine.”  I couldn’t find any specific information on how to use it 
> and how effective this is.  Do you have any hard information?  How-to? 
>  Pros and cons?
>
> Everyone seems to agree that the time to deal with lesser celandine is 
> when it is growing, that there is not much one can do now, in the 
> fall.  But perhaps one can dig up the tubers (subject to all the 
> cautions about getting the whole thing)?  With wetting the soil to 
> make it easier?  But perhaps since it pretty matted, and that can also 
> disturb the soil and make it vulnerable, that really is not practical?
>
> Everyone seems to agree that digging the plants up is tricky because 
> of the risk of leaving bits of the tubules, but some posts seem to 
> think this is doable, at least in smaller areas.  Especially if you 
> get a good rain during the growing season and can dig up whole root 
> systems and put them in municipal trash (?) where it gets heated 
> enough to kill the plant (or something).
>
> It seems that removing the top 3” of soil is, in principle, a 
> solution, since the little tubular roots only go down 3”.  But that’s 
> a lot of soil!  But is this the best approach?
>
> Nobody mentioned solarizing except for the one comment that black 
> plastic doesn’t work.  Do you agree?  One person I talked to on the 
> phone described solarizing with a blue tarp, saying that killed the 
> friendly soil microbes and they would take a few years to 
> re-establish, but if it killed the lesser celandine, maybe that would 
> be worth it.
>
> This seemed to be the best write-up on how-to for glyphosate and 
> manual (digging).   Does this look right?  But even this does not say 
> one application or repeated applications — the phrase “start 
> applications” might be repeats in one place, or in different 
> locations.  Any clarity?
>
>
> https://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/fact/rafi1.htm
>
> */Chemical/
> *In order to have the greatest negative impact to celandine and the 
> least impact to desirable native wildflower species, herbicide should 
> be applied in late winter-early spring, generally February through 
> March. Start applications prior to flowering and up until about 50 
> percent of the plants are in flower, around April 1, then stop. After 
> that, control success declines and many more native wildflowers have 
> emerged that could be killed by spray. Native amphibians would also be 
> emerging and could be harmed. Apply a 1 to 1.5% rate of a 53.8% active 
> ingredient glyphosate isopropylamine salt (e.g., Rodeo® which is 
> labeled for use in wetland areas), mixed with water and a non-ionic 
> surfactant to foliage, avoiding application to anything but the 
> celandine. Glyphosate is systemic; that is, the active ingredient is 
> absorbed by the plant and translocated to the roots, eventually 
> killing the entire plant. The full effect on the plant may take 1-2 
> weeks. Retreatment the following year will likely be needed. 
> Applications can be made during the winter season as long as the 
> temperature is 50 degrees Fahrenheit or above, and no rain is 
> anticipated for at least 12 hours. Because glyphosate is non-specific, 
> spray should be directed such that it contacts only fig buttercup and 
> does not drift onto desirable native plants. To minimize impacts to 
> sensitive-skinned frogs and salamanders, some experts recommend 
> applying herbicide in March and then switching to manual methods.
>
> */Manual-Mechanical/
> *For small infestations, fig buttercup may be pulled up by hand or dug 
> up using a hand trowel or shovel. It is very important to remove all 
> bulblets and tubers. Due to the abundant tiny bulblets and tubers, all 
> material must be bagged up, removed from the site and disposed 
> properly in a landfill or incinerator. A major consideration when 
> manually removing invasive plants like this is the disturbance to the 
> soil which can encourage the target invasive as well provide openings 
> for invasion by other exotic species. For these reasons, manual and 
> mechanical removal is probably inappropriate for larger infestations 
> in high quality natural areas.
>
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Rachel Bayly
> Falls Church, Virginia
>
>
>
>
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