[MAIPC] Lesser Celandine Control

Sun Mar 29 07:33:15 PDT 2020

Greetings: Please check out the video of NC on the proper way to dig Ficaria if you have small patches. Larger infestations must, of course, be sprayed with the appropriate herbicide.

See https://youtu.be/s9Hpq4Z4Tjg

Johnny Randall

Johnny Randall, PhD
Director of Conservation
North Carolina Botanical Garden
CB 3375
University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill
Chapel Hill NC 27599
W – 919.962.2380
C – 919.923.0100
ncbg.unc.edu
Consider a Venus flytrap plate!
See https://ncbg.unc.edu/support/venus-flytrap-license-plate/
[VFT plate final small]

From: MAIPC <maipc-bounces at lists.maipc.org> On Behalf Of Jim Hurley
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 10:05 AM
To: Gover Jr.,Arthur Earl <aeg2 at psu.edu>; MAIPC Listserve (maipc at lists.maipc.org) <maipc at lists.maipc.org>
Subject: [MAIPC] Lesser Celandine Control

Art, and Anyone Else with L.C. Control Experience,

I am controlling LC (Ficaria verna) along a headwaters stream flowing through private property hayfield (largely fescue) and grass lawnish situations here in western Greene Co., Virginia.

Last year, in an attempt to avoid harm to the grasses, I sprayed the LC with 2% Triclopyr, and the tops of the plants were all wilted within a few days.  My question last year was whether the Triclopyr killed the tubers as well.

This year, it did not look as if the area had been treated at all.  This year, my question is whether the Triclopyr did indeed work, but the soil is saturated with LC tubers that were not touched by last year's treatment (implying that it will take a number of years of treatments to exhaust the tuber bank), or whether I need to switch to another more effective product.  If the latter, is glyphosate the only alternative, or are there other products out there that will kill the LC and avoid the grasses?

For any IPC veterans out there who treated LC in the Arlington County, Lubber Run floodplain beginning in 2003, how many years did it take to complete the treatment?

Thanks!

Jim Hurley
Blue Ridge PRISM
Stanardsville, VA

-----Original Message-----
From: "Gover Jr., Arthur Earl"
Sent: Mar 28, 2020 10:34 PM
To: "MAIPC Listserve (maipc at lists.maipc.org<mailto:maipc at lists.maipc.org>)"
Subject: Re: [MAIPC] Mugwort Control

All,

A point of clarification. We are discussing treatment in a non-optimal window to ease application and increase selectivity. It would be interesting to see if persistent use of this approach will remove mugwort from a site and release the desired species. To date, my experience has been that to  truly dispense with mugwort, later-season treatment with potent herbicides has been demonstrated to be the effective approach.

Our project compared multiple rates of clopyralid (CLP), aminopyralid (AMP), or aminocyclopyrachlor (ACP) in an experiment applied in October 2018. These are all broadleaf herbicides that feature a high level of activity against composites and legumes (in general), have significant soil activity, and are generally safe to grasses and graminoids. We found ACP to provide reduction between 94 and 99 percent 1 year later, which was significantly more potent than CLP (8 to 65 percent). Reduction in AMP-treated plots ranged from 76 to 81 percent.

Eliminating mugwort from a site is seemingly akin to removing Canada thistle. It can be done, but requires a  multiple-operation program and fully executing it. If you miss a step, the mugwort reboots to some degree, prolonging the program.

Be well.

Art

Penn State Wildland Weed Management
116 ASI Building
University Park, PA  16802

(814) 863-9904
(814) 863-6139 FAX
http://plantscience.psu.edu/wildland

On Mar 28, 2020, at 21:04, Nathan Hartshorne <nshartshorne at gmail.com<mailto:nshartshorne at gmail.com>> wrote:

If I recall correctly, 2% is pretty standard for foliar applications, but I just found a WVU page that suggests 3-4%.  Plenty of stuff works on mugwort (I used 2, 4-D effectively as wll), it's just a matter of making sure one gets around to it.  In a different attempt, I once had some engineer get us to plow mugwort which failed miserably since the root fragments are happy to grow back.

https://extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/weeds/mugwort<https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fextension.wvu.edu%2Flawn-gardening-pests%2Fweeds%2Fmugwort&data=02%7C01%7Caeg2%40psu.edu%7C792def891eab4577a47708d7d37d3781%7C7cf48d453ddb4389a9c1c115526eb52e%7C0%7C0%7C637210407071272860&sdata=ri69eLO3%2BceXoVgRRXgRDiC%2Bu6suuQPTLd3HgLlM8cQ%3D&reserved=0>

On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 5:45 PM Moore, April -FS <april.moore at usda.gov<mailto:april.moore at usda.gov>> wrote:
Do you find a particular percent solution of glyphosate better than another?

Thanks.

From: MAIPC [mailto:maipc-bounces at lists.maipc.org<mailto:maipc-bounces at lists.maipc.org>] On Behalf Of Nathan Hartshorne
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2020 4:59 PM
To: Gover Jr., Arthur Earl <aeg2 at psu.edu<mailto:aeg2 at psu.edu>>
Cc: MAIPC Listserve (maipc at lists.maipc.org<mailto:maipc at lists.maipc.org>) <maipc at lists.maipc.org<mailto:maipc at lists.maipc.org>>
Subject: Re: [MAIPC] Mugwort Control

We have a surprising range of sprout times from Virginia up to northern PA/jersey as well as other mountainous regions, so that does not surprise me yours hasn't sprouted.  Where I am in Philly it is a few inches tall already.  So there is certainly no problem waiting until yours has sprouted and then let it get a couple inches.

I have used a few different herbicides including glyphosate and clearcast, but have no personal preference.  It takes a long time with each different one to get a preference, and I did not have that, so I have no particular recommendation.  My recommendation really was just about the strategy to start early.  Mugwort can take over a field if ignored, and spraying only in the fall after it seeds has not shown me any particular usefulness.  So if you hit it when it is young short, it is easy to avoid hitting other plants, helps suppress mugwort height, and does kill a fair percent of the plants.

On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 4:05 PM Gover Jr., Arthur Earl <aeg2 at psu.edu<mailto:aeg2 at psu.edu>> wrote:
Hi, Nathan.

Could you elaborate on the current stage of the mugwort your addressing. In Central PA, mugwort emergence is in the future.

What material are you using?

Thanks.

Be well.

Art

Penn State Wildland Weed Management
116 ASI Building
University Park, PA  16802

(814) 863-9904
(814) 863-6139 FAX
http://plantscience.psu.edu/wildland<https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fplantscience.psu.edu%2Fwildland&data=02%7C01%7Caeg2%40psu.edu%7C792def891eab4577a47708d7d37d3781%7C7cf48d453ddb4389a9c1c115526eb52e%7C0%7C0%7C637210407071277851&sdata=ioOS7p4D7BQJZuGXiHup2sdMgRVDyC8ZAilFIV36ejA%3D&reserved=0>

> On Mar 27, 2020, at 15:23, Nathan Hartshorne <nshartshorne at gmail.com<mailto:nshartshorne at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I just wanted to say that in the past I have had success reducing mugwort invasions by spraying at this point of the year when it is still short and a lot of the natives still haven't even shown their sprouts.  Now I got maybe as little as 20% killed and the rest grew back, but that 20% was very helpful in thin areas.  Also, the mugwort that did resprout grew shorter and was significantly easier to manage later in the season when I hit it again.  If you have ever waded through a field of 5 ft tall mugwort trying to spray it with a backpack sprayer, it is not easy.  Anyways, just some advice.
>
> Best,
> Nathan
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